Somme Woods East - Progress Report

Parts of Somme East are now looking like this:

Cardinal flowers, great blue lobelias and sweet black-eyed Susans
bedazzle an understory that had been largely dead for decades. 

This richness, so far, just covers a few acres, in little patches, here and there. But the change is dramatic, when you compare to nearby areas that are as empty of life as they were for decades.

This area was similar to the one shown above - before restoration started. A few old oaks are present.
Few or no wildflowers - little wildlife. No reproduction of the canopy oaks.
Young trees and shrubs are the invasive and malignant buckthorn. 

Pull back from that first flowery photo, and we get this:

That big tree in the background is a swamp white oak.
The relationship between this oak and the herb layer is key to this ecosystem. 

The swamp white oak (Quercus bicolor), like the cardinal flower and blue lobelia, grows in some of the wettest parts of the woods. In the decades since the natural fires were ended by our culture, this tree has suffered. Its lower limbs were slowly killed by shade of invading pole trees. In a sustainable, natural (fire-maintained) woodland, this oak would have had enough sun to maintain life in many of those lower branches. (Technically speaking, it would have been a "woodland grown" tree - rather than a "forest grown" or "open grown" tree. These days, a woodland grown tree is a rare jewel.)

The amputated limbs aren't just ugly. The flowers in this photo aren't just beautiful. In a sustainable natural system (like what we're trying to restore), this sunny matrix would also support little, reproducing swamp white oaks among the wildflowers. The future of the oaks is tied to the diverse flowers, grasses, and sedges that form the nursery bed of the next generation. In contrast, on bare ground, fast-growing trees like cottonwood or box elder win out. Oaks thrive on challenges. Their thick bark withstands fire. Their large seeds compete in a competitive turf.

Equally important - the diverse plants are interdependent with diverse (now rare) animals.

As you may know, last winter we cut - and next winter we will continue to cut - invading trees out from under the oaks. But that's just the first step. Below, check out a photo of a bit of woods that had its big buckthorns cut in the winter of 2016/17.

What's wrong with this picture?

See all those little green seedlings and re-sprouts? They are nearly all buckthorns and other invasives. This year, they're a few inches tall. Within a few years, they'd be a few feet tall. Our next step is to prepare the ground for planting by herbiciding that pestilence of young invasives.

Below, you can see an area where the invasive sprouts have been herbicided.

With the buckthorn sprouts gone, this area can be planted with diverse seed this fall.

The above photo also shows a meter tape and a quarter-meter hoop. We study the results of various treatments. Here we are "sampling a transect" to follow the progress of the restoration.

If you're not familiar with "sampling a transect" - here's how we do it. We permanently mark a line through the woods. In this case, the line goes from tree, to tree, to easily findable tree. Then we put the sampling hoop beside the tape at the five, ten, fifteen, etc. meter mark. We identify all plant species present and estimate the area covered by each species' leaves. We record both. As you can see, taking the "before" data doesn't take us long.

The line, in this case, starts in an area where the main cutting and herbiciding has already been completed, and then runs through the area shown below:

Here, as in most of Somme Woods, you must fight your way through solid buckthorn. Here no restoration has yet been done. This is a true "before" sample. Here we record a lot of buckthorn.

Our first two "anchor trees" were white oaks. the next tree was a bur oak (above). This mighty giant still has some of its lower limbs - dead but still holding on. For a century, it has not reproduced. When shade builds up, the bur oaks are the first to stop reproducing. Their seedlings require the most light.

We record the circumference of each anchor tree along with the distance and direction from the previous anchor.

Since this is a progress report, two more photos seem needed:

Doll's eyes seeds reaching out of their cage

Since it's September, now at every fall workday we'll have one team gathering seeds and another cutting brush. The seeds above are reaching out of a cage that protected their leaves from hungry and over-abundant deer. Somme volunteers divide up the work. Some cage; some burn; some saw.

Doll's eyes seeds, bagged for action.

Some seeds might wait for decades to make it on their own, around our hundreds of acres. They need you! The hunter gatherer. Please join in, whenever the spirit moves you.

Somme Prairie Grove tour: Early August

Color and motion.  In mid-summer the ecosystem explodes with flowers and pollinators. 

Back in July, the vegetation was rich, but compact. Before we look at August photos, let's look at two from mid July:

July 10: the flowers and grasses were mostly knee-high.
In bloom here: butterflyweed, leadplant, wild quinine, and black-eyed Susan.

July 28: the gayfeather (spiked blazing star) with rattlesnake master, Culver's root,
and sweet black-eyed Susan - all twice as tall as the flowers on July 10. But the explosion is just starting. 

The points discussed below:

Point 1. On August 6, in some low-diversity areas, the big bluestem grass is well over the head of co-steward Eriko Kojima. The few blazing stars, Culver's roots, and rattlesnake masters are well down underneath the grass. 

Point 1 

A month ago, the prairie grasses were up to our waists. Today in some places, they’ll be well over our heads. The main tall grasses in this section are big bluestem (turkey foot top) and switchgrass (delicate, wide-spreading heads). With restoration, this area will become more diverse (and the grasses shorter). 

Point 2 

As indicated by the red ribbon, the Illinois Natural History Survey and Forest Preserve District staff are studying Somme Prairie Grove as a model for the Next Century Conservation Plan. This sample point has too many pole trees. We thin trees to reduce shade where it's too thick. Trees are good, but during too many years with too little fire, they got too dense. This area too will become more diverse and compact, in time. 

Point 3 

Seeds are forming on some of early-season bloomers. Notice in this area, seeds from New Jersey tea, white false indigo, and golden Alexanders. 

White false indigo seed pods ripening and starry campion in bloom.

We’ll soon gather, prep, and broadcast such seeds to spread them to needy areas.

Point 4 

This is a good place to look at the major habitats at SPG: thickets (here), prairie-like openings, woodlands, savanna, wetlands

This thicket is becoming more “natural” through a lot of work. Is that "gardening" or ecological restoration? 

A thicket of wild plum and nannyberry. Young bur oaks are getting started on its edge.
In the foreground, in bloom, are Culver's root, showy tick-trefoil, big bluestem, wild quinine, and sweet black-eyed Susan.

Think about this area: 2,000 years ago. Many birds nested in the thickets. The bison and wolves were in the prairies. Deer, elk, and mountain lions were mostly in the woods and savannas. The bison prefer the prairie because they eat mostly grass. The deer in the summer eat mostly leaves and wildflowers; in the winter they eat mostly the live bark of twigs (browse). The elk ate all of those.

Point 5 

Parts of Somme have been utterly degraded, ecologically. This area was clear-cut and plowed. All the trees are young. But many species survived in nearby remnants (like the woods edges we've just passed though and the too-wet-to-plow swale just north of us). So when the Forest Preserve District bought the land, the species of these remnant areas started to spread. Later the stewards brought in seed of the species that hadn't survived here.

The larger trees in this savanna were mostly bur oaks. Today the trees in this disturbed area are mostly scarlet oaks. That's because the scarlets are dispersed over distances by blue jays. (Heavy bur oak acorns aren’t. Squirrels disperse these bigger ones. But squirrels don't venture far out into the prairies or pastures. Thus, bur oak doesn't get restored by squirrels until other trees are established - to serve as highways for the squirrels.) But bur oaks are needed here. They are the heart of the savanna. They have the thick bark that withstands enough fire to maintain this kind of savanna. We already see the thinner barked scarlet and white oaks being burned down. So we help out the recovery of the few bur oak saplings that we do find (see below), and we help the squirrels move acorns.

The bur oak “recruits” you see here were protected from the deer in cages until they were tall enough to escape (both mouths and antlers).

More basswood here should be cut, but we didn’t want to lose too much shade too early.

Distinctive plants here: starry campion, Kalm’s brome, pale Indian plantain.

Note the cage that helped this bur oak get tall enough to be above deer browse height.
 The controlled burn this spring was hot enough to kill its finer branches.
But, despite natural setbacks, this tree is vigorously becoming part of the structure of the savanna.
Don't be impatient, just give it one hundred years or so.

Here, notice many caged bur oaks - and many more un-caged, burned-back scarlet and bur oaks down in the grass. Re-sprouting, burned-off oaks are a natural part of the savanna. 

This is one of the areas where Forest Preserve staff ecologists have been collecting scientific data.
To the left is Deborah Antlitz and to the right is Monica Mueller.

The data will help set standards for more ambitious restoration initiatives. 

Point 6. Summit: Coyote Knob – a gravelly reminder of the glacier. This gravel hill was deposited here by the melting glacier - about 12,000 years ago.

In the cages are now-rare prairie gentians (which need protection from deer and voles if they are to make enough seed to recover their numbers).

In bloom here also is: Solidago (or Aster) ptarmacoides. It it an aster or a goldenrod? Scientific knowledge of the ecosystem is so rudimentary that we hadn’t even known which genus to put this plant into.

“Slender wheat grass” and "bearded wheat grass" (very tall and thin grasses) both of which are along the trail) have recently been re-classified twice. A few years ago they were a wheat (Agropyron). When they were made an Illinois Endangered species, they were re-classified as a rye (Elymus). Anyone hungry for rye bread? Then the new Flora of the Chicago Region announced them with a third genus (Roegneria).

We humans know the moon’s geography better than the floor of Earth's ocean. Similarly, our knowledge of space and particle physics has increased vastly more rapidly than our knowledge of the ecosystem. Space has military implications. The ecosystem doesn’t get that kind of attention – though it’s so much more crucial to our lives, futures, and peace. Just a thought.

From Coyote Knob, turn around, retrace your steps, and continue straight when the main trail turns left. Here we enter the stretch of trail shown by a dashed line on the map, and we’ll walk a trail maintained only by feet. Experience the savanna wilderness.

Point 7. The Party Spot: this little area has a great history. When we first started restoring this site, it was littered with old car seats, milk crates, vehicle tracks, and beer bottles and cans. It was a teen party spot. All around it were dense invasive trees and brush. After we cleaned up  and thinned the brush, it was a pretty opening, and we began to notice many rare plants surviving here. It was on the edge of an old fence line, and the "partying" kept the brush at bay to some degree (by trampling and cutting wood for camp fires). That actually helped preserve some species - like shooting star, violet wood sorrel, poverty oaks, and a Treatened species called small sundrops. It seems likely that it was open enough to be picked as a party spot because the topsoil had eroded away.  Thus, it had both challenges and surviving ecological riches. We scattered seed, and it is now one of the botanically richest areas - in part perhaps because the brush never killed off the turf and its soil biota.  

Party Spot when we first saw it, in the 1970s

Party Spot these days in July, covered with purple prairie clover, mountain mint, wild quinine, prairie dock, and many prairie grasses. 

Party spot in late August. Obedient plant, big bluestem, and more. 

Point 8. Cross the Central Swale again. Notice three more-or-less distinct bands of vegetation:

In the middle of the swale (wet prairie): cord grass, sedges, swamp milkweed, Indian hemp, blue vervain. Next band (wet-mesic prairie): saw-tooth sunflower, Culver’s root, big bluestem, switchgrass.

Next band (mesic prairie): little bluestem grass, dropseed grass, leadplant, prairie clovers, bush clovers.

A beautiful but strange (and temporary?) woods. See below. 

Point 9. The woods along the western edge are all artificial in that the trees consist entirely of weedy invaders along with inappropriate species planted long ago by Forest Preserve staff - before restoration and conservation were well understood. Some of the planted trees were birch, pine, black locust and other non-savanna species, which we removed decades ago. But many of the planted trees were white oaks. White oaks are "natural" and make "ecological sense" on the east side of the moraine here. But this area was originally the openest part of the prairie and savanna border - with the only trees being bur and scarlet oaks. When restoration started here, cutting down all these big old white oaks seemed like a lot of work - and a low priority, compared to other needs. So we've restored this area with the understory grasses and wildflowers of woodland – for now. 

Highlights in bloom now (all planted by us): woodland sunflower, Joe-Pye weed, starry campion, bottlebrush grass, wide-leaved panic grass, awned woodgrass.

Point 10. Prairie swale. There is remnant prairie here, but the wetland is artificial - its wetness resulting from the railroad making a dam here.

One of our many mistakes and disappointments, as stewards, is that the original prairie here was neglected. We thought a conservative approach was best. We should mostly leave it alone, we thought. That turned out to be a mistake. Over forty years, while we weren't paying as much attention as we should, it lost much of its quality to shade of the slowly growing white oaks and brush. The oaks, brush, and artificial wetland discouraged fire. The prairie remnant here needed more care; without it, its richness declined substantially. Now it’s getting some of the help it deserved.

Point 11. Southwest Meadow.

Very beautiful – at this time of year – at this stage of its restoration. This open meadow was solid buckthorn and ash with understory of bare ground. It was formerly prairie. The oak savanna started up hill, where the morainal slope begins, according the the 1839 Public Land Survey. Huge old spreading bur oaks are there now. We had some group workdays here, but most of the brush was cut in the summer of 2008 by Rett Donnelley who was looking for a new job in the mornings and expending his excess energies on buckthorn in the afternoons. This meadow owes thanks to Rett and even more to the people who gathered the seed of the grassland plants now here. 

Point 11. Grasses among the flowers: cord grass, switchgrass, and Canada wild rye. 
Wildflowers here include ironweed, sweet black-eyed Susan, gayfeather, and rattlesnake master.

The grasses are the foundation of a grassland ecosystem. Every quality bit of prairie or savanna is thick with them. The wildflowers catch your eye first. But the elegance of the grasses sneak up on you. In this photo you can just make out a cord grass head (to the right of the two dead tree trunks); a long leaf of cord grass arcs away from it to the right. Canada wild rye is the shaggy green head arcing under the cord grass leaf (and seeming to come out of a purple ironweed head). The many arcing grass leaves are symphonic in grace and complexity.

Switch grass is even more obscure here, yet covering most of the photo; it's the little reddish brown dots everywhere. If you can expand this photo, you can get a look at the structure of switchgrass head against the dark trees in the upper left - just above another purple iron weed.

Point 11. A wrecked elm (left) and basswood (right) are last remainders of the invading trees here. 

We saved some of the elms and basswoods. But over time, they're not making it. Why did we save them? In part because cutting them would have been too much work for too little reward. We had more important work to do. Also, dead elms make great woodpecker habitat, and elms mostly die before too long from Dutch elm disease. The basswood was huge, with five or six substantial trunks. All of them were gradually blown down except the skinny pathetic pole on the right. The bushy mess on the left is trying to recover; the top two thirds of a big trunk was snapped off by wind. Pole trees are often blown down when the supporting other pole trees are cut away.

This area was originally prairie that stretched from here to the horizon. The savanna started fifty or a hundred yards to the east, where the morainal slope starts to rise. An argument could be made to restore savanna here. A little patch of restored prairie wouldn't amount to much here, as there is no prairie adjacent, and the savanna would be more sustainable for its animals (and for many ecological processes including the evolution of plants to adapt to changing conditions) if it were bigger.

On the other hand, an argument could be made to restore prairie - if the Somme Prairie to the west could be expanded this far. That however would be a long time from now, if ever.

The dense patch of willow aster in the foreground of the above photo is a reminder of our indecision here. We planted little seed, as we didn't know whether to restore as "prairie" or "savanna" - and we didn't want to waste precious seed. Interestingly, the willow aster - a quality plant - is taking over from the weedy tall goldenrod that was dense here for the first few years after cutting the brush. The quality plants that are gradually taking over in this area help us decide what else to plant now.  

Point 12. A big old limb, bigger than many whole trees, stretches west from the edge of Vestal Grove.
It once stretched over pasture, but perhaps not the prairie that preceded the farm.
The much larger original prairie fires would likely have burned it off. 

Point 12. Stepping into Vestal Grove

Old bur oaks, some with huge limbs reaching out to the west. Probably not a feature of the pre-European times, but a feature of pasture, after the fires stopped. (Are those limbs 200 years old, or 100, or what. (Please don’t saw one off to count the rings, but when those trees die, I hope somebody counts the rings.)

This is one of the world’s first restored bur oak groves. Probably was originally savanna rather than the woodland it’s been restored to. But the original savanna survives on its edges.

People think of woods as having a spring flora. Most people don’t know that woodlands once had a rich flora all season long. There are distinct floral seasons, all rich with wildflowers, grasses, and sedges:

Early spring (toothwort, spring beauty, trout lily, false mermaid), late spring (trilliums, bellwort, rue anemone, starry false Solomon’s seal, wood betony, sedges), early summer (wild hyacinth, golden Alexanders, Solomon’s seal, wild columbine, doll’s eyes, sedges), late summer (tick-tre-foils, woodland sunflower, Joe Pye weed, starry campion), early fall (zigzag goldenrod, elm-leaved goldenrod, Short’s aster) and late fall (elegant seeds and colorful leaves).

Starry campion (white) and wild bergamot (purple or lavender or something)

Of course, there are whole different seasonal lists for the savanna and prairie, and whole different lists for each of those shade categories according to wet, wet-mesic, etc. There are currently 486 native species known from this site. A study of the diversity and conservativeness of the herb flora of Vestal Grove shows that it has been increasing in quality since 1985 and is still increasing today. 

The wildflowers, butterflies, and birds of Vestal Grove are getting more diverse, year by year.
And the prairie, savanna, woodland, and wetland increasingly blend seamlessly into each other. 

Point 13. In the middle of the woods, a wet woodland swale runs through. Don't think that "wetlands" are something different from prairies and woods. There are wooded wetlands and prairie wetlands.

If you'd like to review the July 9th tour of this same area, you can find it at:
http://woodsandprairie.blogspot.com/2017/07/july-9-2017-restoration-tour-of-somme.html

LIST OF THE PLANTS AT THESE POINTS

This list gives the common names names of plants - only the first time we see each species. 

Plants at Point 1: wild bergamot, mullein foxglove, yellow giant hyssop, riverbank rye, Virginia rye, bottlebrush grass, sweet black-eyed Susan, purple Joe Pye weed, figwort, blue lettuce, white vervain, wild coffee.

Plants as we go north from Point 1:

Starting in the wet-mesic prairie: gayfeather, rattlesnake master, big bluestem grass, narrow-leaved mountain mint, wild qinine, compass plant, Culver’s root, winged loosestrife, rosinweed, switchgrass, nodding wild onion, prairie dock, early goldenrod, grass-leaved goldenrod.

Plants on the first rise (mesic prairie): purple prairie clover, rigid goldenrod, daisy fleabane, dropseed grass, yellow coneflower, common St. John’s wort.

At the edge of the woods: woodland sunflower and ironweed.

As we walk through the woods: starry campion, woodland brome (in seed), cowbane, forked aster, white grass, dotted St.John’s-wort, purple giant hyssop.

Point 2: No new species, but great masses of woodland sunflower and purple Joe Pye weed.

As we exit the woods: smooth tick-trefoil, red-top grass, showy tick-trefoil, heal-all.

Point 3

Focus here on seeds: Note them forming on New Jersey tea, white false indigo, meadow parsnip (Thaspium), and golden Alexanders.

New species in bloom here: Compass plant and leadplant.

Plants in bloom as we walk north: flowering spurge

Point 4: No new species.

Walking west from Point 4: cream gentian and savanna blazing star (both only in bud), milk vetch, round-headed bush clover, wild carrot, pale Indian-plantain, bearded wheat grass.   

Point 5: starry campion, Kalm’s brome, pale Indian plantain.

As we cross Central Swale (a flowing stream after rains): water parsnip, winged loosestrife, wet-prairie obedient plant, cordgrass, mad-dog skullcap, Virginia mountain mint.

On the little rise we call Coyote Knob: stiff white aster (or goldenrod), butterflyweed.

(Here we start skipping points – if there are no new species in bloom.)

Point 8. Again crossing the Central Swale – this time on the west Inner Loop.

Notice three distinct bands of vegetation:

In the center of the swale (wet prairie): cord grass, swamp milkweed, Indian hemp, blue vervain

Next band (wet-mesic prairie): saw-tooth sunflower, Culver’s root, big bluestem, switchgrass

Next band (mesic prairie): little bluestem grass, dropseed grass, leadplant, both purple and white prairie clovers, round-headed bush clover.

Point 9

Here the woodland sunflower, Joe-Pye weed, starry campion, and bottlebrush grass are joined by wide-leaved panic grass, awned woodgrass, and silky rye grass.

Point 10

Obedient plant. Turtlehead. prairie loosestrife, jewelweed.

As we go south from Point 10:  

False sunflower (or “ox-eye”) and wood reed.

Then in a very lightly wooded semi-open area:

Great blue lobelia, white snakeroot, water hemlock, spotted Joe-Pye weed, manna grass. Then ahead, under the white oaks: blue lettuce.

Point 11

Cardinal flower, cut-leaved water horehound, Canada rye grass.

Point 13

Woodland obedient plant, cord grass, water hemlock. 

In the thickets as you emerge from the woods: hedge bindweed, fringed loosestrife, elm-leaved goldenrod.

That’s a lot of plants. Enjoy as many as you can!